Home is where the Heart is

The expression “quinto-quarto” in Italian cooking refers to offal, parts of an animal that are not the best eating. They are the cheaper parts, and the comical equation of “the fifth-fourth” implies that they were waste, by-products, or in any case, not marketable. The history of Italian cooking, and I mean peasant cooking, and sustenance in most of the world relies of these cheap proteins. The pig, perhaps the most valuable resource for Italian contadini, was rendered for every possible use: after the chops and filet there are sausages, pancetta, guanciale, headcheese, prosciutto and as many salumi as there are dialects. 

The history of cooking (and survival) was made by using what was available, and thankfully, making it taste good. And the history of “cuisine,” for Italy and most of the world has the same intention. 

 The first time I made this recipe was in Sicily, at the artist’s residency Officina Stamperia del Notaio in Tusa. We went to the old butcher shop in town and I saw a pig’s heart on the counter. I had never seen a pig’s heart before and had never heard of it as a food. I asked the woman there how she cooked it, and she told me this recipe. I bought some other stuff, sausages, I think, and as I was on my way out, she said, wait, and gave me this pig’s heart. I now do this with beef or veal heart, which I can find more easily. 

Beef heart (and hanger steak) needs to be cooked quickly in a hot pan or else it becomes chewy. The idea of a rare heart may seem too much for some, but it is also compelling. The renowned “5/4’s” of Italian cooking, offal like liver, tripe, and ox tail have become expensive. Hanger steak is still very affordable, as is heart, and this meal for two might cost 2 euro, wine excluded. The recipe is “agrodolce” or sweet and sour, and something about this combination of sugar and vinegar works so well with the ferrous organ.

Sweet and Sour Heart

 Ingredients

One large onion

Beef heart, about 300 g.

1 Tb sugar

A half a cup of vinegar

Extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper

Parsley and hot peppers as garnish

Start with the onion by cutting it in half and then into thin slices. Sauteè just a few minutes in olive oil and add a half a cup of water. When the water has almost completed evaporated, add the sugar and vinegar. Stir often and remove from heat when the vinegar has evaporated. Salt and pepper to taste.

 Cut the heart in 2” slivers and sauteè with olive oil in a very hot pan for 1 -2 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. 

 Plate the heart and cover with the onions and chopped parsley and sliced hot pepper, if possible. Serve immediately. 

 Since I first made this in Sicily, I drink a Sicilian red, like Etna Rosso.