Brains
Fried Brains
In 1987, the PDFA launched an anti-drug campaign called “this is your brain on drugs.” In the commercial, an actor would show us an egg and say, “this is your brain,” and then a hot cast iron skillet and say “this is drugs.” He would then crack the egg and fry it for a few seconds and say, “this is your brain or drugs.” I don’t know how successful this campaign was, but what it said to me was eggs should be fried. I hope that skillet had some butter! I discovered much later that brains, too, should be fried.
In ancient medicine it was believed that by eating a certain part of an animal, you would gain those attributes. Hippocrates and Galen discussed humors, and the balance of temperature and humidity. Eating heart was good for the heart, and eating liver was good for the liver, etc, and there is some truth to that, especially in regard to organ meats (1). Foucault describes eating a walnut to cure a headache because a walnut looks like a brain (2). Some believe that eating sexual organs, and even things resembling sexual organs (figs and oysters for the female, asparagus, etc, for the male) increase virility and fertility. There is some truth to resemblance and the power of suggestion.
Eating brain may not make you smarter scientifically, but it will make you more aware socially and historically about the origins of food, and poetically-- as it is a simple and masterful dish.
In the Roman tradition, especially in the Jewish ghetto, lamb’s brain is up cut and fried with artichokes. These two products of the Roman spring are cut to similar bite-sized shapes and fried in a batter that disguises their texture, so you are not always sure if you have selected a piece of artichoke or a bit of brain. One is fibrous and bitter, one is soft and sweet, both are minerally. In the mouth, with a squeeze of lemon, they are the perfect union and expression of the Roman countryside.
One whole lamb’s head, cut longitudinally, costs about a euro, and yields a handful of brain. Veal brain can also be used.
Cervello Fritto
Two lamb brains, 200 g
Two artichokes, 200 g
Flour 100 g
Beer 150 ml
Oil for frying 500 ml
Salt
One lemon
Make a batter of beer, flour, and a pinch of salt to the consistency of a batter. Put in the refrigerator to rest.
Clean the artichokes by removing outer leaves and stalks, cut into quarters or eighths. Put in water with lemon juice to rest.
Rinse the brains thoroughly, removing any blood or tissue, and cut into pieces like the artichokes.
Heat the frying oil in a large pot. Dip the pieces of brain and artichoke in the batter and then deep fry for 3-4 minutes until crispy. Do not overcrowd the pot. Season with abundant salt and serve with quartered lemon.
Drink a cool white Lazio spumante, or, why not, Champagne.
(1) https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/319229#benefits-of-eating-organ-meats
(2) Foucault, Michel. The Order of Thingshttps://is.muni.cz/el/1423/jaro2013/SOC911/um/Michel_Foucault_The_Order_of_Things.pdf