Puntarelle

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Puntarelle is a Roman word and a Roman dish, derived from common chicory, a leafy plant of the dandelion family, both wild and cultivated. In “cicoria ripassata,” an almost perennial side dish at Italian trattorias, young (green) chicory leaves are boiled and then sauteed in olive oil, garlic, and hot pepper. As winter approaches, the plants form a central hollow stalk, as if to flower. This pale shoot is the puntarella, the point. If you walk through the Campo dei Fiori market in December you will see old women, the few that are left, cutting these stalks into thin strips and putting them in cold water, where they curl up. They are drained and put into plastic bags to be sold. You can also find puntarella at some supermarkets, but they are rigorously hand made, and in small production for a short season. These bitter curls are dressed with garlic, anchovies, and vinegar, enough to wake up the soul during the dreary winter solstice. Though a cold dish, vinegar and garlic make it decidedly hot. 

 

Puntarelle

 

2 chicory stalks, 4-6 inches long (about 150 gr)

1 cloves crushed garlic

2 tinned anchovies

1 Tablespoon white wine vinegar

2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt, pepper

 

With a paring knife, cut the chicory stalk into thin strips, about 1/8 inch thick, and soak in cold water until they curl up, about an hour. Otherwise, you can buy them already prepped. 

In a large bowl, put the anchovies and vinger and set aside. The vinegar will soften the anchovies until you can crush them with a fork. Otherwise, you can use anchovy paste. Add the crushed garlic, salt and pepper, and olive oil to make a dressing. Add the drained and dried puntarelle and mix thoroughly using your hands, so all is well coated.  Transfer to a dish and serve immediately. This salad is a great accompaniment to fried baccalà. 

Have a cool, dry white wine like Frascati Superiore or Est!Est!Est! of Viterbo. 

william pettit